GOOD PR HELPS DEFUSE MAPLE SYRUP SCARE

A year and US$80,000 later, the American ma-ple industry has made some progress in cooling public fears about lead in its products. The issue came to a boil last year when a Vermont newspaper reported that several times the acceptable levels of lead for food were found in maple products. "Nobody is getting poisoned eating contaminated maple syrup," Dave McClure, a Littleton, New Hampshire, maple packer says; per-capita consumption is too low, averaging about three or four ounces per person annually. But low-per-person intake "only goes so far" with a public highly concerned about contaminants in their food, he admits. The maple industry responded to the crisis quickly. A Washington-based publicity and crisis firm charged US$25,000 to reverse the flow of damaging information. A top food chemist was hired as a consultant for US$40,000. The conclusion is that there is no one source, "there is no silver bullet" that will solve the problem of lead, McClure says. It may come from brass in pumps, from galvanized tanks used to hold syrup. "Lead-free soldering is available now, but it wasn't 20 years ago," he says. So there may be contamination from older equipment. Old buckets, gathering tanks, and milk cans used to hold hot syrup are all contributing factors. Replacing them cut lead levels in half in McClure's hobby operation, to 180 parts per billion (ppb) from 375. But McClure is reluctant to recommend that to everyone because it is expensive. Lead in maple syrup likely isn't new, he says. High-tech testing methods revealed its presence. It wouldn't have been found two decades ago, and different technology is needed to find lead in syrup than in wine or water. Producers are urged to take steps in their operations to reduce lead contamination. Producers shouldn't paint pails or equipment in their maple huts. Nor should they use less-expensive lead solder on repaired or home built equipment. Over-cleaning boiling pans with acids can expose lead-soldered seams. Using sour sap to clean pans may also be connected to lead levels, but there are only preliminary studies on this, McClure warns. The bottom line is that changing a single management practice may not be enough to lower lead levels. But it is something that must be done, he says. Lead in maple products is significantly higher than in jams and sweetener spreads. And it is likely that is taken up through the soil into trees. "We are selling a high-priced gourmet product," he says. "We can't put ourselves on a pedestal when the average (lead) in the food supply is 100 (ppb)." Producers are warned that one of the worst things they can do is pour hot syrup into an old milk can. The old cans were turn-plate steel. The newer cans were lead soldered stainless steel. Cans were intended for milk, which went into cans at much less than 180F degrees, the recommended minimum temperature for packaging syrup. Only food grade materials should be used. John Butler, Barrie-based Ontario agriculture ministry maple specialist says Health Canada officials "tell us the numbers that are being talked about are not a problem" given low consumption levels. But Butler acknowledges that perception becomes more important than truth with consumers. -DS

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